There are people out there who are calling for the end of small plates restaurants. They argue that the format of 6-7 small mouthfuls of vastly different foods is unwieldy and antisocial. They say that surely you just want one big plate, that this illusion of choice is just that — a mirage that convinces you that your meal was better than in was. And for a long time, I would’ve agreed. But there’s a new generation of innovative Israeli restaurants in London that continue to breathe new life into the formula. One being Lilienblum.

Another outpost in the Eyal Shani extended cinematic universe, Lilienblum is more grown up than Miznon, but less pretentious than HaSalon. Sure there’s Comic Sans on the menu (a Shani trademark) but it’s not written in riddles, it’s just descriptions of thoughtful, well-presented well put together food.

The vibe of the restaurant suits its location in Shoreditch and the bar is a great place to watch the chefs whiz around generously drizzling incredibly good olive oil on dishes as they fly off to tables. Israeli head chef Daniel Lazar seems totally in control, snacking on fresh baked challah in-between tasting dishes ready for service. There’s an energy at Lilienblum that you’ll recognise if you’ve ever eaten out in Tel Aviv. We may not have the late-night culture or the weather, but it’s nice to know there’s bit of that Israeli buzz just off the Old Street roundabout.

The food itself is that classic new Israeli that we all know and love. Fresh, colourful, full of flavour. The bread selection of focaccia, sourdough and challah is perfect with the delicate olive oil and spicy tomato paste it comes with. The rest of the menu is divided betwen small plates and big plates and arrives at the table in no particular order — all very casual and Israeli.

The day I visited, the summer menu was in full swing. Salt baked beetroot with (very English sounding) clotted cream was fantastic — the flavour more like labneh or sour cream. I wasn’t expecting much of the green salad, but, slathered in parmesan and sweet almond butter the consistency of tahini, it was instantly the most memorable thing done with leaves since the Canadian flag.

The menu is all pretty light – you could easily split 7-8 plates between two and still not leave too full. And for dessert there’s a “Matok board” - a sort of pudding tapas for a little taste of everything. Something I wish more restaurants would adopt.

Lilienblum as a restaurant is not anything you will be unfamiliar with if you eat in London, but in a time of creeping prices and franchises fronted by celebrity chefs who are phoning it in, it’s nice to be reminded that if you can nail the basics, you can still create a fantastic experience.

Lilienblum
(Non kosher)